Scotland

Kevin w/Knox
St. Giles Cathedral

A few days in Scotland provided an opportunity to retrace steps of the great Scottish reformer, John Knox.  He lived between 1513 and 1572.

John Knox's house

(Background on the reformation:  The reformation really heated up after Martin Luther posted the "Ninety-five theses" in 1517 Germany.  This document outlined practices within the Roman Catholic church that did not have a scriptural basis.  Martin Luther, along with many others sought to reform the church.  However, as we look back from our perspective, we understand that the reform came in a new form of doctrine and worship, protestantism.  This new worship had widespread implications reaching into politics with kings and queens fluctuating between the religions causing cultural climate changes, particularly influencing the lives of protestant subjects (aka reformers).)

St Andrews Cathedral - from front
looking to the back

St. Andrews Cathedral - front

John Knox, like Martin Luther, was ordained as a Catholic priest, but it was not long before convictions drove him to align with the reformers.  Knox's life fluctuated from being a priest for the King to fleeing from Queen Mary of England (aka Mary Tudor, "Bloody Mary").  The final years of his life were spent preaching at St. Giles Cathedral in Edinburgh.  Knox lived down the street (aka "The Royal Mile") from St. Giles, so we were able to tour both his house and the cathedral in one afternoon.  Knox began his preaching in St. Andrews after George Wishart, another protestant reformer, was burnt at the stake.  Knox first preached in the St. Andrews Castle (only ruins now, and not pictured in this blog post).  He did not preach in the St. Andrews Cathedral (see pictures) as it was Catholic.  He did, however, preach in the parish church in St. Andrews and also in Stirling (a small city approximately 1 hour by car from St. Andrews).  We visited Stirling and saw the "Church of the Holy Rude" where John Knox preached as well as Stirling Castle, a 12th century castle.

Holy Trinity Parish Church
St. Andrews

Stirling Castle

King and Queen of Scotland?

Boat ride to Loch Leven Castle

Loch Leven Castle

Mary, Queen of Scots (aka Mary ) went from ruling the country to being forced to abdicate her throne to her 1 year old son (who later became King James VI) and was imprisoned in Loch Leven castle (a castle on lake Leven) for nearly a year.  On a cool, rainy day, we took a boat ride across Loch Leven to see the ruins of the castle.  I decided that I don't want to be imprisoned in my lifetime, but if I had to be, a castle like Loch Leven would be my choice.

Mimi's Bakehouse
Edinburgh

St Andrews
Home of Golf

Our trip to Scotland was not entirely religious and historic, it also included eating, drinking, golf, and a tattoo.  We found a small bakehouse, "Mimi's Bakehouse", that we had to try.  It had great food and a wonderful atmosphere.  Too bad it's not MY bakehouse!!!

Scotland is known for their whiskey (aka Scotch) and we had a chance to tour the Glenchie Distillery.  It was interesting to see the process of whiskey-making.  It's similar to beer initially (barley is roasted, mashed, and then mixed with yeast), but then the process changes and involves approximately 12 years of aging.  I had to wonder who figured out that 12 years was the best amount a time; a patient man, I suppose.

Scottish Bag Pipe 

The 61st annual Edinburgh Military Tattoo featured military bands from all over the world including the Netherlands and Brazil.  The evening was filled with music, colors, and entertainment all in the backdrop of the Edinburgh Castle.  It was not hard to see why this event is the most visited in Scotland.

Netherlands Bicycle Band

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Scotland including the people, weather, and sites.

Riots and Looting

I've been contacted by many of you regarding our safety here in London during this time of madness and disarray so I thought I'd post a little of the perspective from this side of the pond.  We are safe and sound, so thank you for your thoughts and concern!!  Fortunately, our sleepy neighborhood remains relatively unaffected.  However, many stores have taken precautionary measures to minimize damage and loss, if the "disorder" reaches us.

Department Store

Sports Store

Post Office

In contrast to our peaceful suburb, Clapham, a city in southwest London, was hit pretty hard with the riots and looting.  Clapham Junction is the "busiest railway in Britain" and one that I went through yesterday to return home from my glorious day at Kew Botanical Gardens (more details on that in another post!).  Upon exiting the train station, I was met with broken and boarded windows, police officers in every direction, and nearly as many  news reporters.  Most of the people "roaming" the street were actually standing and staring at the damage or taking pictures (like me).  It is surprising, and yet, I think writer, Max Hastings, may be on to something.  He observes:

Of course it is true that few (of the rioters and looters) have jobs, learn anything useful at school, live in decent homes, eat meals at regular hours or feel loyalty to anything beyond their local gang.  This is not, however, because they are victims of mistreatment or neglect.  It is because it is fantastically hard to help such people, young or old, without imposing a measure of compulsion which modern society finds unacceptable.  These kids are what they are because nobody makes them be anything different or better.

A key factor in delinquency is lack of effective sanctions to deter it.  From an early stage, feral children discover that they can bully fellow pupils at school, shout abuse at people in the streets, urinate outside pubs, hurl litter from car windows, play car radios at deafening volumes, and indeed, commit casual assaults with only a negligible prospect of facing rebuke, far less retribution. 

Although Max Hastings is referring to a sect of British youth, I think it warrants a serious look at American youth and what we communicate with our system of expectations and sanctions (or lack thereof).

Royal Botanical Gardens Kew

The weather forecast was a high of 66F with a 10% chance of precipitation, so I put on my tennis shoes and headed to Kew Gardens.  When I arrived at Kew, I found a charming town awaiting me!  Upon exiting the underground station, I was surrounded by big, green trees, small boutique shops, and a bookstore.  As I followed signs directing me to the Gardens, my view of the trees remained, but instead of shops, there were elegant white brick homes with rod iron fences decorated by roses.  I was immediately enchanted and I hadn't even arrived at the Royal Gardens!!

  

The Gardens kept the enchantment alive.  The first piece of foliage that I was introduced to is probably the most important foliage in the Gardens, the BIRCH bark cherry tree.  I overheard someone state that the tree had the most beautiful bark of all the trees in the garden and I would have to emphatically agree! :)

Palm House

Moving along the path, my first stop was in the Rainforest "Palm House" (built 1844-48).  That's right, there is a rainforest habitat (of sorts) in London.  I say "of sorts", because the monkey calls and bird chirps that were heard inside the building were merely recordings of those animal sounds.  Admittedly, the recordings were sufficient to create the "feel" of the rainforest, so I guess that was a good cost-saving tactic.  Does that make it a rainforest or just a fancy greenhouse?

Kew Palace in the background

After I walked through the glasshouse, I was a bit relieved to return to the 66 degrees outside of the building.  I continued my journey by beautiful flowers, dominating structures (such as the Kew Palace, built 1631), and trees.  Oh my, the trees.  There were trees that the dinosaurs ate, trees that you could climb on, trees that seemed to grow into the earth, and trees that had a "tupee" of needles resting on their branches.  You could even take the "Treetop Walk" which was literally a walkway weaving around the treetops.  It was fantastic!

Treetop Walkway

       

 


 

Trees were not the only sight to behold, I also meandered through the Bamboo Garden, had lunch by what I like to call "Swan Lake", enjoyed the serenity of the Japanese Garden, and attempted to take my own picture in front of the Pagota  (built 1762).

My view at lunch

See Mimi...See the
Pagota??

 

Aww yes, the
Pagota

Japanese Garden

The day couldn't have been more beautiful from the weather to the incredible foliage.  I thoroughly enjoyed Kew Gardens and give it 5 stars.